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Milky Way


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#21 rospondek

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 12:09 PM

Yes 35mm is way to wide to get planets which you can differentiate but your M31 is oh so cute :D

Anyway with this lens Milky Way should be great. I can see that my 50mm (75mm on DX), which is my widest lens right now, is not wide enough for some astro shots.



#22 JakeSPhoto

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Posted 21 July 2016 - 12:02 AM

I took a picture of the moon the other day using stacking, I took 100 pictures and stacked them using registax.  I followed Tonys guide.

 

 

Right now I am at the beach and the moon has been full, next week should be better to try and get pictures of the milky way.

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  • MoonFINSIHEDYesNow.jpg


#23 JakeSPhoto

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Posted 22 July 2016 - 07:53 AM

I got this one last night, I took a bunch before the moon came up, I wish I would have taken more at lower than ISO 6400, but oh well I'll try again tonight  :D

 
 
D7100 + Tokina 11-16
11mm
f/3.2
ISO 3200
25 sec

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  • MilkyWayOceanCopy4.jpg


#24 rospondek

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Posted 22 July 2016 - 09:28 AM

Oh beautiful shot! Loooooove the colors! Great progress in the quality :)

I would try to add a little more contrast to the center of the Milky Way to make it more dark but that's just me.

 

Jealous! :P

 

P.S.

Tokina 11-16 you're sain'.... Hmmm... B)



#25 Roderick

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 12:12 PM

Lovely sunset/milky way photo Jake !



#26 JakeSPhoto

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 08:47 AM

Hey guys.  Took a bunch more and ended up going with this, stack of 9 images I took at ISO 3200, 11mm, f/2.8, 25 sec

 

 

I used DSS like you suggested @Rospondek.  It took a bit of time for my computer to get it done but when it did I think it turned out good. I only messed with the regular picture files, Im not sure what the dark/flat are supposed to be. I got to do more research on that

 

 

Next on my to do list is figure out how to do a panorma and find something for the foreground  :D

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  • MILKY edits dss Final 1.jpg


#27 rospondek

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 09:24 AM

Great contrast just a little too much of magenta. But so many details and colorful stars.

DSS is very demanding. My PC is sweating as well. And it is not too slow ;)

 

Dark frame is just photo with lens covered to see where are the hot pixels and eventual noise.

Nice comparison of what happens with the sensor when the temperature rises.

iso1600-600s-test.jpg

 

The image is visibly sharper and more detailed.

Dark-Frames-Astrophotography.jpg

 

Flat frames are done from photographing white area (sheet of paper or something like that) and used for removing vignetting, spots and other things.

NormalFlat.jpg


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#28 JakeSPhoto

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 09:38 AM

Once again thanks for the informative post rospondek. So would I need to shoot a dark frame each time I take my camera out to shoot, or can I just do it once and it work for all other times? 

 

 

I edited the tint here to bring the purple down a bit like you suggested and I think it looks better! Thanks!

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  • Milky dss edits Final 2.jpg


#29 rospondek

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 09:50 AM

Yup, much better ;)

 

Dark frames - well depends on weather and number of shots. When shooting for a long time with long exposures the camera and sensor are starting to heat. The longer the more. So try to make one dark every 15 shots? To make it easier do not put the cap on the lens cause this can - will! - move the camera on tripod no matter how sturdy it is. Instead cover the lens with some dark cloth, baseball cap (but watch out for the holes ;) ), dark t-shirt or something that won't allow any light to get to the lens. Easy, light and fast so you will make it between the shots without moving anything :)

 

When there are only a few shots you can add one extra shot at the beginning and one at the end. But they won't add any noticeable quality change :)

 

Of course only use darks when you're stacking single frame not star trails. But that's too obvious ;)


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#30 PeterPP

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 11:30 AM

One of the more annoying bits about astro imaging (besides being up all night) is the seeing/clarity are best when the air temperatures are very cold.

In summer the warm moist air makes things shimmer/wavy looking especially noticeable  in telescopes.


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#31 rospondek

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 11:41 AM

Yes, sad truth. And what's even better? Cold will kill your battery within a minutes :D

 

Here you can see clearly the hot wavy look.

https://youtu.be/7W99Cd7Co14



#32 marcod

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 02:57 AM

You guys are pro  :D

This is one of the first attempt with the new Tokina 11-20 I got. 1250 ISO, 20 sec, 2.8. Something tells me I should bump more the ISO. Still getting the hand of post-processing these pics. Any advice is more than welcome! 

 
milkyway.png
 
Thanks  ;)


#33 rospondek

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 04:00 AM

Pwetty :D Great colors. This Tokina is pretty good as I can see.

 

Bottom left - some city. Right? ;)

 

Would you post the histogram of the original photo? This will show how much you could bump it up ;)



#34 Bill Peppas

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 06:33 AM

I wouldn't bump the ISO more, that would make the light pollution go way over the horizon and more prominent.

unfortunately the right answer to getting a better photo thee is... going to another place with less light pollution :(



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#35 marcod

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 10:12 AM

Yep, I agree -- this is a particularly bad location .. the lights are basically the outskirts of Milan so lots of light pollution there. My laziness is to blame as this was shot on my balcony  :D

This is the before (above) and after of the photo and a 1:1 crop of the center. Still learning to fully control the Tokina  :unsure: not sure if I could squeeze some more sharpness out of it.

 

Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 5.01.33 PM.png

 

Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 5.07.51 PM.png

 

Thanks and cheers



#36 rospondek

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 10:35 AM

After looking at the histogram you could easily extend the exposure to 30 seconds (DX 11mm is 16.5mm, FX would give you whooping 54 seconds of exposure) at the same ISO without overexposing. This could give you more light and less noise from the ISO.

 

The bottom 'city' part could be easily darkened extra more by using the graduated filter with additional exposure tweaking. Actually now you can use it to get the details in that part as the histogram clearly shows you're loosing them in that corner :)



#37 Bill Peppas

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 10:47 AM

He'd have some star trailing with 30s however rospondek.



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#38 rospondek

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 11:00 AM

Well rules says - no :)

 

600/(11mm*1,5)=~36s

 

So 30s should still be frozen or at the most just start to move. You will see this on the 100% crop but on the print or 1080p you won't notice that.

On the other hand, the 100% crop looks strange. Stars shouldn't be so 'moved' :) I had such a transition on 18mm but after 30s of exposure so a lot worse settings than this shot :)



#39 Bill Peppas

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Posted 01 August 2016 - 11:19 AM

That rule is rather relaxed ( 5pixels ) not dead on.

That's why you see moved stars despite following the 600 rule ;)



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#40 marcod

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 05:05 AM

Thanks Bill, Tomasz,

 

I corrected a little the colors and applied a graduated filter in the bottom left corner, plus did a little boosting of contrast and light on the milky way.  :P Do you like it better?

 

I did initially set to 25s and did see more star trails when zoomming 100%, so i lowered to 20s. I will try stacking more images next  :)

 

Thanks and cheers

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